中国日报采访:李峻院长谈中国时尚全球化突围之路


近日,东华大学上海时尚创意学院院长李峻接受《中国日报》专访,深度剖析中国时尚打破文化隔阂、赢得全球认可的国际创新之道一既要深挖传统文化的精神内核,更要以文化创新重构时尚叙事。


( 图源:《中国日报》3月7日 )


近期,我国时尚产业出海热潮持续升温,众多产业开始大规模向海外拓展,这种从被动扩张到主动布局的转型,背后是市场需求与国际形势的双重驱动。作为全球纺织服装行业的长期引领者,中国正将产业优势转化为文化输出势能,但这条出海之路并非坦途。国际时尚市场遵循周期性文化潮流的运作规律,中国设计师对当地市场及文化可能缺乏深度认知,东西方审美认知差异仍是巨大挑战。

中国设计师的全球化进程面临两大核心挑战:一方面是跨文化传播中的误解:中华文化符号在企业出海时遭遇误读,或者在地化认知存在短板:对海外消费者需求,如东南亚地区人体体型差异等缺乏深度洞察。成功的全球化布局不能仅依靠成品输出,更需要建立完善的基础设施支持。从人体数据库建设到本士化供应链搭建,每个环节都是关乎出海成败的重要因素。

中国时尚产业正通过多元路径构建国际竞争力。以东华大学与宁波慈星股份的产学研合作为例,工程师与设计师通过联合开设时尚针织创新课程,在智能一体化成型的系统开发上实现突破,这不仅验证了跨界协同对生产效率的倍增效应,更为后续文化输出奠定技术基座—中国在柔性生产领域已形成全球标杆优势。

这种技术势能能够快速转化为文化传播动能。时尚先锋平台蕾虎Labelhood 与英国哈罗德百货Harrods合作的春节限时店项目中,二十余位设计师将数控刺绣与传统年画元素融合,通过模块化展陈设计实现东方美学的当代诠释。这标志着中国时尚从单一制造输出转向“技术+文化“双轮驱动模式,为产业出海开辟新航道。

面对未来五到十年的产业变革,中国时尚将像新能源汽车行业,以科技为核心竞争力,实现快速商业转化。随着柔性生产技术突破与文化势能积累,一个兼具东方美学底蕴与全球商业效率的新生态正在成型。


原文如下:

Breaking down barriers

Li Jun, dean of Shanghai International College of Fashion and Innovation at Donghua University, said China has long been a global leader in the textile and clothing industries.

The trend of going global has been on the rise since two years ago, with many industries starting to expand overseas in large numbers, said Li, adding this shift has been driven by changing market demands and international dynamics, which marks a departure from traditional passive expansion.

Despite remarkable achievements in recent years, Chinese designers still face numerous challenges in their global expansion efforts.

Li said the international fashion market values innovation and operates in cyclical cultural trends. Chinese culture encounters challenges in connecting with Western markets, while Chinese designers often lack in-depth knowledge of local markets and cultures.

For instance, the Southeast Asian market presents distinct body shape variations compared with China, Li said.

Additionally, successful global expansion requires more than just finished products. It needs thorough exploration of overseas markets and established infrastructure support to ensure high-quality and low-risk expansion.

He said local designers need a global mindset, adding many are lacking in this area. Innovation is paramount and should be universally applicable and appealing, driving industry advancement, he said.

Li Yushan from Pronounce, said Chinese designers need to create sophisticated products that resonate with Eastern tastes. We must understand the importance of consistency, rather than relying on gimmicks, he said.


Working together   

The Shanghai International College of Fashion and Innovation promotes cultural innovation. Its equality, diversity, inclusivity philosophy aims to cultivate students' cross-cultural understanding and design capabilities.

As a Sino-foreign cooperative educational institution, we prioritize cultural innovation and study local cultures, such as Shanghai-style and Jiangnan culture. Simultaneously, we need to have a global perspective to meet the needs of global customers, said Li Jun, the college dean.

Established in 2014, the school was jointly established by Donghua University and Scotland's Edinburgh University with the aim of creating first-class creative fashion disciplines, and cultivating industry talent for China and overseas.

Li highlighted the importance of close collaboration between enterprises and educational institutions. For instance, the partnership between Donghua University and Ningbo Cixing Co resulted in the launch of a knitting innovation course, enabling engineers and designers to look at new production methods in machinery and materials. The course greatly improved the speed and efficiency of production and manufacturing.

It presents a breakthrough in engineering and technical advancements, Li said, noting that China is the global leader in customized production.

Global customers can choose suitable clothing patterns according to body-type databases and quickly customize personalized requirements, he explained.

Various platforms in the fashion industry are actively supporting brands in their global expansion efforts.

Chinese fashion platform Labelhood and London-based luxury department store Harrods have collaborated to host Chinese New Year pop-up stores, showcasing the works of Chinese designers and facilitating their entry into the international market.

This year's pop-up store featured a selection of New Year-themed pieces and handcrafted artifacts from over 20 emerging Chinese artists and brands.

Looking ahead, the prospects for Chinese designers' global expansion are promising, said Li, the college dean.

In the next five to 10 years, China's fashion industry will, like the electric vehicle industry, take technology as its core competitiveness, achieve rapid commercial transformation, and benefit the world, he said.


资料来源|《中国日报》3月7日

图文编辑|He Qi